Completely restyled, the Chief collection embodies a subtle blend between the original watch and new, more modern aspirations; a reinterpretation of its original, distinctive design cues, in tune with the zeitgeist.
“We explored our archives to create models inspired by our rich heritage," emphasizes Patrik Hoffmann. "The cornerstone of Favre Leuba's relaunch is the Chief collection. The original piece that inspired this collection, the 1970 Chrono Valjoux 23 hand-wound, already featured a square-curved case that softened slightly at the four corners. With the Chief, our goal is to develop a complete collection that will incorporate a variety of movements of different sizes in the future, embodying the full potential of our renewal with elegance and innovation.”
The Chief Chronograph retains the distinctive design elements of the 70s, updated with a contemporary, sporty aesthetic.
The vintage-inspired ‘cushion’ case accentuates a modern sport-chic profile. At first glance, the watch seems unchanged, but a three-quarter view reveals the case’s subtle redesign: grooves on the flanks harmoniously follow the shape of the pushers. The lugs, borrowed from the historical predecessor, now exhibit more streamlined lines, while the ovoid shape on the outside of the case evokes compactness and fluidity.
The eye is naturally drawn to the magnificent sunburst dial, which is available in three color variations – blue, ice blue, and black. Crafted to the highest standards, it requires over 100 meticulous production steps. The impression of depth creates a striking contrast, enhanced by two raised sub-dials – a showcase for an exceptional level of finish. With the bi-compax counters positioned at 9 and 3 o’clock for precise minute and second readings, the Chief Chronograph perfectly embodies Favre Leuba's commitment to innovation and quality. Featuring a tachymeter scale on the inner flange to measure speed, a must on sports chronographs, this dial further stands out with refined details. A stylized hourglass in 3D – the emblem of Favre Leuba – at 6 o’clock adds a touch of sophistication.
The hands and applied indices, rhodium-plated and multifaceted, feature brushed and sandblasted finishes; they are coated with Super-LumiNova®, which both underlines the impression of visual depth and ensures optimum readability under low light conditions. The baton-shaped hour markers with triangular tips subtly echo the design of the hands, creating aesthetic unity.
The bezel-less 41mm case in 316L steel stands out with a circular brush finish on top and a satin-brushed finish on the four facets. Featuring an open back with a sapphire crystal, the case is water-resistant to a depth of to 100 meters. On the crown, Favre Leuba’s hallmark stylized hourglass
The integrated steel bracelet with H-shaped links, complemented by a deployant clasp for optimal comfort, follows through on the ergonomics of the case design. The rubber strap option allows for emphasizing the ‘sport’ in the watch’s sport-chic vibe.
Within the Chief Chronograph beats the traditional La Joux-Perret L113 chronograph movement, famed for its meticulous finishes, such as a blued column wheel, along with a 60-hour power reserve, ensuring exceptional performance in an exquisite setting. The column wheel is an essential component in the chronograph movement, serving as the command mechanism for the chronograph’s various functions (start/stop/reset). By allowing for precise orchestration of these actions, it ensures smooth operation and seamless handling, and keeps the chronograph’s promise of reliability and durability. Through the sapphire back, one can admire a movement with exceptional finishes; it evokes a ballet of decorations: Côtes de Genève stripes, blued screws, a circular-grained barrel bridge, and polished steel components. The carefully executed finishes reflect watchmaking expertise and the pursuit of perfection.
Technical information
Case
- Case: Size 41 mm
- Material: Steel
- Case shape: Cushion
- Case Thickness: 14 mm
- Lug Width: 22 mm
- Glass Material: Sapphire Crystal
- Case Back: See-through Case Back
- Water Resistance: 100M
Dial
- Dial Colour: Black
- Luminosity: On Hands & Hour Markers
Movement
- Caliber: FLC02
- Movement: Automatic
- Features: Small second, Chronograph, Tachymeter
- Jewels: 28
- Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
- Frequency: 28800 vph
Bracelet and straps
- Material: Steel
- Clasp Type: Folding clasp
- Strap: Black rubber
Reference
- 00.20101.113.01.200 Bracelet
- 00.20101.113.01.301 Rubber strap
FAVRE LEUBA HISTORY
A JOURNEY OF 287 YEARS SINCE 1737
Favre Leuba developed the legendary Bivouac, the world’s first mechanical wristwatch with an aneroid barometer for altimetry and air pressure measurement. It soon ranked among the indispensable equipment of those who overcame seemingly defined limits. The Bivouac completed one of its first missions on the wrists of the Swiss national parachuting team during the 1962 World Cup in the United States. The Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti wore a Bivouac in 1964 when he and the Genevan Michel Vaucher successfully ascended the north face of Pointe Whymper (4,196 m) in the Grandes Jorasses for the first time and when he conquered the north face of the Matterhorn on the most direct route. The young Valais native Michel Darbelley undertook his first solo ascent of the Eiger in 1963 with his watch from the workshops of Favre Leuba, which reliably showed him what altitude he had already scaled and whether a change in weather was imminent. The famous French polar explorer Paul-Emile Victor relied on his Bivouac on numerous expeditions to the endless ice.
FL251 CALIBREThe patented FL251 calibre of 1962, with 11.5‴ and a height of only 2.95 mm, revolutionised thanks to the use of two barrels, series production of extra flat movements with centered second hand.
Three years after the presentation of the first diver’s watch from the in-house atelier, the brand launched the Deep Blue, waterproof up to 200 metres.
NEW HEADQUARTERS Favre Leuba reincorporated production of their own ébauches in the newly established company, headquartered in Petit-Lancy near Geneva. The company was consequently named at the end of the 19th century as Manufacture d’Horlogerie Favre-Leuba S.A.
280th anniversary of the Maison was celebrated at Baselworld with the launch of the Bivouac 9000, the ultimate instrument for all altitudes.
BRAND AMBASSADORSThe brand supports many athletes and expeditions that express our claim of Conquering Frontiers. Pen Hadow, who led a mission to the Arctic, Satyarup Siddhanta, who embarked on a journey to the Mt. Vinson Massif, and Sayuri Kinoshita, who undertook a world-record dive, are some of the ambassadors representing Favre Leuba and their tool watches.
Within less than a year of its launch, the Raider Bivouac 9000 wins the Watchstars award in the category New Stars for being the best new watch.
50TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BATHY Favre Leuba celebrated the 50th anniversary of the 1968 superstar Bathy with the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth, which measures and records depth to 120 m.
BIVOUAC 9000 SUMMITS EVERESTA great year for Favre Leuba as its pioneering instrument watch, the Raider Bivouac 9000, reaches the summit of Mount Everest. The Bivouac 9000 is the only mechanical altimeter watch in the world to have successfully reached an altitude of 8,848m.
2024
FAVRE LEUBA REVIVAL
Favre Leuba relaunched at Geneva Watch Days 2024 with three cornerstone collections. These collections include the Chief, which features two modern icons: the Date and Chronograph. The brand also introduced the 60th-anniversary Deep Blue Revival and Renaissance models, honoring its diving heritage. In addition, the brand unveiled the Sea Sky, a tribute to their original 70s design.
