Completely restyled, the Chief collection embodies a subtle blend between the original watch and new, more modern aspirations; a reinterpretation of its original, distinctive design cues, in tune with the zeitgeist.
“We explored our archives to create models inspired by our rich heritage," emphasizes Patrik Hoffmann. "The cornerstone of Favre Leuba's relaunch is the Chief collection. The original piece that inspired this collection, the 1970 Chrono Valjoux 23 hand-wound, already featured a square-curved case that softened slightly at the four corners. With the Chief, our goal is to develop a complete collection that will incorporate a variety of movements of different sizes in the future, embodying the full potential of our renewal with elegance and innovation.”
With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of just 10.8mm, the Chief Date shares the refined design of the Chief Chronograph in a package that is slightly smaller and slimmer, yet just as delicately sculpted.
The Chief Date’s primary point of differentiation lies in its textured dial, featuring a stamped tapestry pattern of high-relief hourglasses. At 3 o’clock, a discreet date window adds practical functionality to the watch’s sophisticated design. The dials each have an offset sunray finish and come in vibrant hues of green, blue, and black, each capturing light in a distinctive, modern way.
The beautifully chiseled case elegantly combines satin-finished and polished surfaces, creating a subtle interplay of light. The interchangeable bracelet, seamlessly integrated into the case, offers exceptional comfort and underscores the watch’s sporty yet sophisticated character.
Powered by the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, the Chief Date impresses with a 68-hour power reserve. This movement, too, features superior finishes, including diamond-cut bevels, blued screws, and Côtes de Genève stripes. The oscillating weight, also decorated with Geneva stripes, adds an extra touch of luxury to the whole.
The Chief Date will be available at a price of 30 000 SEK, positioning this watch as an accessible option for watch enthusiasts seeking style, quality, and performance.
A Modern Take on the Classic Favre Leuba From the 1970s
A modern reincarnation of the classic Favre Leuba from the 1970s, Chief is an elegant luxury sports watch collection that meticulously preserves and reinterprets vintage elements for a new, contemporary aesthetic. Designed for the urban man with a focus on style and wearability, the Favre Leuba Chief watches are defined by a unique case design and a powerful mechanism. It’s a versatile selection of timepieces that seamlessly adapt to today’s fast-paced lifestyle, looking equally at home in a corporate setting, a sports outing and everything in between.
Streamlined Proportions
The Chief Date features a versatile 40mm steel case with a unique design. Slender with just 10.81mm thickness, the timepiece strikes a perfect balance between robustness and wearability, ensuring it becomes an integral part of one's everyday look. Inspired by the glorious history, this cushion-shaped case boasts a modern appeal because of its contemporary proportions and multifaceted design.
It features brilliantly executed circular and vertical brushing on the sides that add a beautiful contrast and highlight the contours of the case. It exudes an understated allure creating a subtle play of light, giving the watch a refined character. It is topped by a curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The sapphire crystal caseback offers a view of the beautifully decorated calibre and a water resistance of 100M.
Pleasing Dial Aesthetics
This stunning dial of the Chief Date goes through over 100 steps in production. Its entire expanse is enlivened by a meticulously carved monogram pattern drenched in a lush verdant shade, exuding a subtle contemporary appeal. It comes equipped with a contrasting date aperture at the three o’clock marker. A 3D monogram set inside the dial and multi-faceted hands & applied indices with brushing and sandblasting add depth to the watch face.
Seamlessly Integrated
The three-link integrated steel bracelet features a combination of finishes, alternating between vertical brushing and polished centre links. It unites seamlessly with the case and tapers towards the end which gives it a graceful presence on the wrist. The bracelet is equipped with an easy change mechanism and secures with a butterfly clasp.
Superior Driving Force
Designed and manufactured with high Swiss craftsmanship, FLD03 is a self-winding calibre. A testament to unrivalled accuracy and reliability, the movement is equipped with a date complication. It features a power reserve of 68 hours and delivers exceptional precision, beating at a 4Hz frequency.
Immaculately Decorated Calibre
The watch offers a clear view of the immaculately decorated calibre through the sapphire crystal caseback. It carries superlative finishing on all the elements, meticulously executed with refined details, such as Perlage on the lower bridges, Côtes de Genève on the main plate, Soleillage finishing on the rotor, heat-treated blued crews, and more.
Custom Skeletonised Design
The 4N gold-plated rotor is skeletonised and custom-designed with the Soleillage finish. It bears the Favre Leuba monogram engraved as a medallion. Skeletonisation of the rotor is an extremely precise task with more implications than just aesthetics. The weight and other characteristics of the rotor boast surgical precision to ensure winding efficiency.
Visibility Under All Conditions
The multi-faceted hands and rhodium-plated applied indexes are equipped with a generous application of high-performance SuperLuminova X1 in blue. It offers a highly effective glow in the dark and lasts for longer durations.
Technical information
Case
- Case: Size 40 mm
- Material: Steel
- Case shape: Cushion
- Case Thickness: 10.81 mm
- Lug Width: 22 mm
- Glass Material: Sapphire Crystal
- Case Back: See-through Case Back
- Water Resistance: 100M
Dial
- Dial Colour: Black
- Luminosity: On Hands & Hour Markers
Movement
- Caliber: FLD03
- Movement: Automatic
- Features: Date
- Jewels: 24
- Power reserve: Approx. 68 hours
- Frequency: 28800 vph
Bracelet and straps
- Material: Steel
- Clasp Type: Folding clasp
- Strap: Black rubber
Reference
- 00.20102.102.01.200 Bracelet
- 00.20102.102.01.301 Rubber strap
FAVRE LEUBA HISTORY
A JOURNEY OF 287 YEARS SINCE 1737
Favre Leuba developed the legendary Bivouac, the world’s first mechanical wristwatch with an aneroid barometer for altimetry and air pressure measurement. It soon ranked among the indispensable equipment of those who overcame seemingly defined limits. The Bivouac completed one of its first missions on the wrists of the Swiss national parachuting team during the 1962 World Cup in the United States. The Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti wore a Bivouac in 1964 when he and the Genevan Michel Vaucher successfully ascended the north face of Pointe Whymper (4,196 m) in the Grandes Jorasses for the first time and when he conquered the north face of the Matterhorn on the most direct route. The young Valais native Michel Darbelley undertook his first solo ascent of the Eiger in 1963 with his watch from the workshops of Favre Leuba, which reliably showed him what altitude he had already scaled and whether a change in weather was imminent. The famous French polar explorer Paul-Emile Victor relied on his Bivouac on numerous expeditions to the endless ice.
FL251 CALIBREThe patented FL251 calibre of 1962, with 11.5‴ and a height of only 2.95 mm, revolutionised thanks to the use of two barrels, series production of extra flat movements with centered second hand.
Three years after the presentation of the first diver’s watch from the in-house atelier, the brand launched the Deep Blue, waterproof up to 200 metres.
NEW HEADQUARTERS Favre Leuba reincorporated production of their own ébauches in the newly established company, headquartered in Petit-Lancy near Geneva. The company was consequently named at the end of the 19th century as Manufacture d’Horlogerie Favre-Leuba S.A.
280th anniversary of the Maison was celebrated at Baselworld with the launch of the Bivouac 9000, the ultimate instrument for all altitudes.
BRAND AMBASSADORSThe brand supports many athletes and expeditions that express our claim of Conquering Frontiers. Pen Hadow, who led a mission to the Arctic, Satyarup Siddhanta, who embarked on a journey to the Mt. Vinson Massif, and Sayuri Kinoshita, who undertook a world-record dive, are some of the ambassadors representing Favre Leuba and their tool watches.
Within less than a year of its launch, the Raider Bivouac 9000 wins the Watchstars award in the category New Stars for being the best new watch.
50TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BATHY Favre Leuba celebrated the 50th anniversary of the 1968 superstar Bathy with the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth, which measures and records depth to 120 m.
BIVOUAC 9000 SUMMITS EVERESTA great year for Favre Leuba as its pioneering instrument watch, the Raider Bivouac 9000, reaches the summit of Mount Everest. The Bivouac 9000 is the only mechanical altimeter watch in the world to have successfully reached an altitude of 8,848m.
2024
FAVRE LEUBA REVIVAL
Favre Leuba relaunched at Geneva Watch Days 2024 with three cornerstone collections. These collections include the Chief, which features two modern icons: the Date and Chronograph. The brand also introduced the 60th-anniversary Deep Blue Revival and Renaissance models, honoring its diving heritage. In addition, the brand unveiled the Sea Sky, a tribute to their original 70s design.
