SIGNATURE MYSTÉRIEUSE® Black Peppar

725 000 kr

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SIGNATURE MYSTÉRIEUSE® Black Peppar

Immerse yourself in the exclusive world of Charles Girardier with our iconic CG SM-1809 model, revealing the allure of the "Signature Mystérieuse®". This monogram, a fusion of the "C&G", comes to life in a mysterious dance with the wearer's movements, offering an infinite touch of elegance.

The Signature Mystérieuse® evokes the incomparable talent in mechanical art of Maison Charles Girardier. It is much more than a simple monogram: it is a tribute to the legacy of Charles Girardier, known as "Girardier L'ainé," the master watchmaker who brought animated scenes of stunning beauty to life.

Equipped with a flying tourbillon and this exquisite mechanical complication, these watches embody the very essence of watchmaking craftsmanship. Their Grand Feu enamel, delicately applied by hand and fired at over 800°C, gives these exceptional timepieces an aura of sophistication and perfection.

The champlevé enamel dial, adorned with arabesques, is discreetly enhanced by delicate gold or silver flakes in the shape of flowers called "Fleur de Sel," adding a touch of refinement.

The “Ice Blue” version won the 2020 Grand Prix de l'Horlogerie in the “Ladies’ Complication Watch” category.

This model is available in three versions: "Ice Blue" with its ice-blue enamel dial adorned with silver flakes and a white gold case, "Green Grey" with a sophisticated dial color and silver flakes in a rose gold case, and "Dark Red" with dark red enamel and gold flakes in a yellow gold case.

These models are powered by our exclusive CG SM-1809 caliber, a signature of Charles Girardier’s horological excellence.

The CG SM-1809 caliber, featuring automatic winding, consists of 308 distinctive components. 

This caliber features a double complication: 
At 6 o’clock, a flying tourbillon enhanced by a tourbillon cage. The tourbillon completes one revolution per minute. 

At 12 o’clock, the “Signature Mystérieuse®” -  
an automaton - showcases the Charles Girardier logo with  the intertwined “C&G” on two elements pivoting on an axis. The energy required for this ballet is provided by a dedicated oscillating weight for this complication, concealed beneath the dial. With each movement of the wrist, kinetic energy will move the two elements in opposite directions, ultimately returning to the initial position when the wrist is tilted for time reading.

It boasts a magnificent Flying tourbillon,  not only enhancing precision but also adding 
a distinguished allure.  It equips our two CG SM-1809 models in 37 mm and 41 mm.

Its power reserve extends to 46 hours.

THE COMPLICATIONS SIGNATURE MYSTÉRIEUSE® 
The “Signature Mystérieuse®” embodies the very essence of horological elegance, subtly fusing the initials “C&G” in an enigmatic dance, orchestrated by the movements of its wearer. 

It’s more than just a mere monogram: it’s a tribute to the legacy of Charles Girardier, known as “Girardier L’ainé,” the Maître horloger, evoking his incomparable talent in mechanical art, breathing life into animated scenes of breathtaking beauty. This delicate harmony between the mysterious movement of this monogram and the reference to the exquisite craftsmanship of our Maître horloger offers an infinite touch of elegance, propelling this ancestral heritage into the contemporary world of horological luxury.

THE FLYING TOURBILLON
A flying tourbillon is a sophisticated mechanical complication designed to minimize the effects  of gravity on the operation of a mechanical watch. Invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, it aimed to enhance the accuracy of pocket watches by compensating for variations in timekeeping caused by gravity’s influence on the movement.

The tourbillon comprises a set of gears and a balance spring that, instead of remaining fixed within the movement, is housed within a rotating cage. This cage completes a full rotation at regular intervals, typically within one minute, to counteract the effects of Earth’s gravity on the watch’s position.

A flying tourbillon is an even more advanced version of the traditional tourbillon. Unlike the conventional tourbillon, the flying tourbillon isn’t supported by a lower bridge, creating the illusion that it “floats” freely within the rotating cage. This design enhances the visibility of the movement and showcases a high level of horological expertise, demanding increased precision in the manufacturing and assembly of its components.

OUR EXPERTISE
The Grand Feu champlevé enamel method involves depositing enamel into cells that have been previously carved into the dial plate. This process, sometimes mechanical for simple patterns, becomes a complex manual task for unique pieces. The enameler fills the spaces that were hand-engraved, adding a palette of shades and colors.

Technical Information

FUNCTION

  • Hours and minutes indication.

CASE

  • Rose gold
  • Sapphire crystal back, anti-reflective treatment.
  • Water-resistant to 30 m.
  • Case diameter: 41 mm.
  • Thickness: 11.8 mm.

DIAL

  • Color: "Black Peppar".
  • Grand Feu champlevé enamel with an engraved motif called "Chevrons".
  • 60-second flying tourbillon.
  • "Dauphine" hands in white gold.

BRACELET

  • Brown strap, calf leather with a chevron pattern.
  • Polished steel folding clasp.

COMPLICATIONS

  • At 6 o'clock, a flying tourbillon enhanced by a tourbillon cage set with diamonds. The tourbillon completes one revolution per minute.
  • At 12 o'clock, the Signature Mystérieuse® – an automaton – showcases the Charles Girardier logo with the interlaced "C&G" on two elements rotating on an axis. The energy for this performance is provided by a dedicated oscillating weight for this complication, hidden beneath the dial. With every wrist movement, kinetic energy moves the two elements in opposite directions, returning to their original position when the wrist is tilted for time reading.

MOVEMENT

  • CG SM-1809 Caliber
  • Automatic winding movement.
  • Self-winding by peripheral rotor
  • Flying tourbillon
  • “Signature Mystérieuse®” system
  • Jewels: 32
  • Diameter: 30.6 mm
  • Thinkness: 8.43 mm
  • Power reserve: 46 hours
  • Frequency: 28,800 Vph - 4 Hz
  • Number of components: 308
  • The bridges and plates are hand-polished and silver-satin finish
  • Engraved Crown

REFERENCE

  • CG SM-1809 41/3RG

About Charles Girardier

THE BRAND A BIT OF HISTORY

This is the captivating story of a revival dedicated to exceptional watchmaking. A prestigious Geneva-based watchmaking house, dormant since its creator’s disappearance in 1839, is reborn in 2018 with a strong determination  to restore its reputation in the prestigious world of watchmaking.

Charles Girardier, also known as “Girardier L’ainé” (the Elder), was a Maître horloger active in Geneva from the mid-18th century to the early 19th century. He was famous for his expertise in Geneva enameling, characterized by hand-painted miniatures on the dials of his clocks. His passion for mechanical art was reflected in his creations of animated scenes, including the famous Jaquemarts.

In 2018, Patrick Alexandre Ulm, the spiritual heir of Charles Girardier, delves into the legacy of the Geneva watchmaker by purchasing antique pieces at auctions. This passion triggers the rebirth of Maison Charles Girardier, once dormant.

Driven by an intense passion, Patrick Alexandre Ulm envisions and materializes the revival of this watch brand in a contemporary version while preserving its rich historical heritage. This new chapter celebrates the 18th-century watchmaker while incorporating the codes of contemporary watchmaking.

With unwavering dedication, Patrick Alexandre Ulm strives to perpetuate these values and breathe new life into the Charles Girardier brand, while preserving the essence of this former watchmaking manufacture.

PATRICK ALEXANDRE ULM,
Passionate Entrepreneur

2018, a Creative Thought...
In 2018, Patrick Alexandre Ulm, the spiritual successor to Charles Girardier, delved into the past of the Geneva watchmaker through the acquisition of antique pieces at auctions. This revelation sparked the birth of a new chapter for the House of Charles Girardier, once dormant.

Driven by a fervent passion, he envisions and conceptualizes the revival of this watchmaking brand in a contemporary version while preserving its historical heritage. This new chapter celebrates the 18th-century watchmaker while embracing the codes of the present.

"Our company is founded on deep values of dedication, heritage preservation, and exceptional craftsmanship. We believe in preserving the spirit of Charles Girardier, perpetuating his legacy, and drawing constant inspiration from our history to create unique watch collections. Each timepiece carries this ethic, this timeless elegance that defines our identity."

"Our mission is to reinstate the history of exceptional watchmaking in the present by resurrecting the House of Charles Girardier. We are committed to preserving the historical legacy of Charles Girardier while shaping a contemporary watch brand, merging exquisite mechanical art with exceptional craftsmanship. Each movement of our watches embodies the splendor, elegance, and mystery of a bygone era, evoking a past of excellence while embracing the future of contemporary watchmaking."

2020,
A Triumph for the Charles Girardier Brand
Creativity, quality, and success are on the horizon!

The triumph of the exceptional 1809 Signature Mystérieuse® "Fleur de Sel" watch for women (reference: CG-1809 37/1WG Ice Blue) was honored in 2020 with the prestigious Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie in the “Ladies' Complication”category.

A STORY LIKE NO OTHER

Charles Girardier, known as "L’Aîné" (1759 – 1839)
Charles Girardier, nicknamed "Girardier L’Aîné," was a master watchmaker active in Geneva from the late 18th century to the early 19th century. His renown was based on his expertise in Geneva enamel, characterized by hand-painted miniatures on the dials of his timepieces. He was also passionate about mechanical art and was known for his creations of animated scenes (saynètes), including automata such as the famous Jaquemarts.

These features were not merely technical feats but also added a dimension of visual intrigue to his creations. He employed traditional goldsmithing techniques such as hand engraving, guilloché, arabesque art, and enamel painting, giving his pieces an unparalleled uniqueness.

His unwavering commitment to authenticity and uniqueness earned him widespread recognition. He was sought after to design watches for prominent figures of his time, including members of royalty and political leaders.

As European watchmaking reached new heights in precision at the turn of the 19th century, there was an opportunity to offer clients even more ingenious and sophisticated curiosities and entertainments. This was the era of the fashion for repeating watches and automata.

The dial, often reduced in size and sometimes placed eccentrically, provided a usable surface that watchmakers’ imaginations seized upon. The subjects suited to automata were varied: the most common being Jaquemarts, imitations of those installed on large tower clocks and other campaniles. Positioned on the face of watches or on a plate hidden under the case lid, these small figures in colored gold stand out against an enamelled or engraved background, dressed in antique or fashionable costumes.

Despite his significant contributions, Girardier’s name would remain silent for nearly two centuries after his passing.

THE WORKSHOPS SHARING EXPERTISE
Nestled in Buchs, near Zurich, the Charles Girardier Workshops embody a fusion of traditional and innovative watchmaking. Through our collaboration with Timeless Manufacture, we have created a unique complication based on a flying tourbillon movement with automatic winding via a peripheral mass, specifically designed for our CG SM-1809 models in 37 and 41 mm. The CG M8-8080 caliber, also developed by Timeless, has been carefully adapted for Charles Girardier, combining precision with timeless aesthetics.

The Charles Girardier Workshops share their space with the prestigious Oscillon brand, creating a haven of creativity and excellence. This flourishing collaboration, at the heart of a dynamic hub, enables unparalleled synergy and constant exchange of expertise.

The new CG SYNC-1863 caliber, a true horological masterpiece, is built on a Vaucher movement base, enhanced with a Dubois-Dépraz integration for the GMT complication. The master watchmakers from our partner Oscillon have perfected this creation by developing the oscillating mass, the pushers’ design, and the day/night indicator window. They also carry out the artisanal guilloché and assembly with Swiss precision, while overseeing the engineering of the entire mechanism.

Thus, every watch that leaves our workshops reflects an unceasing quest for excellence, blending horological heritage with contemporary innovation to offer our clients pieces of rare elegance and unparalleled quality.

TIMELESS WATCHMAKING TECHNIQUES
Our vision revolves around creating timeless pieces that preserve the classical watchmaking techniques used over two centuries ago. This is complemented by a commitment to embrace modern designs while showcasing expert craftsmanship.

We aspire for your timepiece to become an elegant reminder of an ancient tradition, embodying durability as immutable as time itself.

Each creation we design is infused with this vision, offering a harmonious blend of the past and the present.

Thus, your watch becomes much more than just a timekeeping instrument; it transforms into a timeless piece of horology, a witness to a rich and eternal history.

GUILLOCHÉ

The Art of Finishing
Guilloché is a traditional decorative technique involving the engraving of intricate and repetitive patterns onto a surface, typically metal. This meticulous process requires a high level of craftsmanship and precision, often performed using a guilloché lathe or a straight-line machine. The resulting patterns, which may include waves, spirals, and other geometric designs, create a unique interplay of light and texture, enhancing the object's aesthetic appeal.

Guilloché on the SYNC-1863
The CG SYNC-1863 dial is enhanced by artisanal guilloché, executed on semi-automatic machines from the 1960s. This traditional guilloché, in the style of "Ancienne Tapisserie Guillochée," produces complex and repetitive patterns inspired by ancient fabrics and tapestries, adding depth and texture to the dial. This traditional method demands great precision and artisanal skill, imparting a unique depth and texture to the dial. The guilloché on the SYNC-1863 embodies the perfect blend of heritage and innovation, paying tribute to traditional watchmaking art while incorporating modern techniques to offer unparalleled elegance.

ENAMELING

The Pinnacle of Horological Craftsmanship!
The delicate art of enameling, often practiced by prestigious manufactures, represents the zenith of horological craftsmanship. This demanding process involves the meticulous melting of glass powder at extremely high temperatures, a true challenge for artisans. At Charles Girardier, this complex technique is used to adorn our dials, creating pieces with vibrant and unalterable designs.

Every step of the process, from the careful preparation of colored glass powder to the delicate application on a prepared metal surface, requires exceptional expertise and craftsmanship. Repeated firing at high temperatures results in an ultra-resistant surface fused with the metal base.

Enamel artisans, true artists, are also alchemists and visionaries. They anticipate the complex interactions between pigments, ensure color stability, and envision the final nuances. Traditional techniques, such as cloisonné, champlevé, paillonné, and miniature painting on enamel, are implemented with precision to create pieces of dazzling and timeless beauty. Enameling thus becomes a dialogue between tradition and innovation, embodying the quintessence of high-end horological craftsmanship.

Enameling Techniques
The fine nuances of the art of enameling are revealed through five distinct techniques, each employed with precision by the rare enamel artisans who master their subtleties.

  • Cloisonné Technique: A delicate gold wire, often less than 0.5 mm in diameter, is skillfully bent and shaped to create forms on a plaque previously coated with a thin layer of enamel. After an initial firing, the shapes are filled with various enamels, sometimes requiring multiple firings to achieve the desired shades, transparencies, and depths.

  • Champlevé Technique: Similar to cloisonné, this method involves depositing enamel into cells, but the plaque is first carved out. This process, sometimes mechanical for simple patterns, becomes a complex manual task for unique pieces. The enamel artisan fills the manually engraved spaces, adding a palette of shades and colors.

  • Paillonné Technique: This technique features tiny gold or silver leaf cutouts in detailed patterns, known as paillons, integrated into layers of transparent enamel.

  • Miniature Painting on Enamel: The rarest technique, this approach involves working with enamel differently from the start, mixed with oil instead of water. Applied delicately with a fine brush on a first layer of enamel, this method allows for the miniature reproduction of pictorial masterpieces, expressive portraits, vivid landscapes, or complex scenes.

  • Camaïeu Enameling: This refined artistic technique uses subtle shades of a single enamel color to create a monochrome gradient effect. This delicate approach highlights the richness of a single color, ranging from light to dark, producing a nuanced and subtle palette.

In this technique, the enamel artisan works with a limited palette of colors from the same family, creating visual harmony through a smooth gradation. Each shade is precisely applied to the prepared metal surface, then fired at high temperatures to fuse with the base. This process is repeated several times, allowing the artist to manipulate shade variations and create captivating visual effects.

Camaïeu enameling demands meticulous expertise to achieve a perfect balance between shades and ensure a smooth transition from one tone to another. The final result is an enamelled artwork of timeless elegance, where color mastery and gradation subtlety merge to create a unique and refined piece.

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