Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition

MAESTRO GC39 25TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

In its 25th anniversary year, Gerald Charles celebrates the boundless creativity of founder Mr. Gérald Charles Genta with the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition, and opens the brand’s exclusive archives to the public for the first time

Geneva, 1 April 2025 – At Watches and Wonders Geneva, Gerald Charles, the Swiss independent watchmaking Maison, is delighted to mark its 25th anniversary with the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition, a watch inspired by the creativity and technical mastery of the Maison’s legendary founder, Mr. Gérald Charles Genta.

At the same time, the family-owned Maison will open the Gerald Charles archives to the public for the first time as part of the In the City activities taking place during Watches and Wonders Geneva. The museum will showcase the extraordinary depth of Mr. Genta’s creativity. As well as some of his sketches, the display will include examples of Gerald Charles archive designs, including the Turbo, Round 44, Renaissance, Sportside and Seaside. Each an example of Mr. Genta’s unique ability to play with form and function to create watches of unparalleled wit and imagination – and each a glimpse into the future of Gerald Charles.

“It is a great honour for me and my family to guide Gerald Charles into its 25th anniversary year,” said Federico Ziviani, Gerald Charles chief executive. “Since the Maison’s revival in 2019, it has been our privilege to introduce it to a new generation of collectors. Across the globe, watch lovers have embraced Gerald Charles with wonderful enthusiasm. These successes have been built on the peerless Maestro and now it’s time to look to the future and showcase the breathtaking depth in the Maison and in the creativity of our founder, Mr. Gérald Charles Genta.”.

25 years in the making: the story of Gerald Charles
Mr. Genta established Gerald Charles in 2000. By then, the artist, watch designer and businessman had already earned his place in horological history. He began his career in the 1950s and would go on to design some of the most celebrated and collectible watches of the 20th century.

A polymath, Mr. Genta brought to Gerald Charles almost five decades of watchmaking savoir-faire. He would serve as its creative director until his death in 2011, when he left the Maison as a final legacy to his unique, peerless talent, passing it into the ownership of the Ziviani family, his long-time business partners and friends. Today, Mr. Genta is widely revered as the most influential watch designer of the past 200 years. A master. The maestro.

In honour of his achievements and the Maison’s 25th anniversary, Gerald Charles has chosen to open up some of the mysteries that have so far defined its story: what’s behind Gerald Charles? What lies undiscovered in the archive? Are there designs penned by Mr. Genta during his 11 years with the Maison he held so dear that will showcase his artistic expression and lifetime’s work in ways as yet unknown?

This 25th anniversary year will mark the beginning of a new chapter in the Maison’s history. The Ziviani family believed wholeheartedly in Mr. Genta’s vision for the Maison and worked with him from its inception. Today, led by Gerald Charles chief executive Federico Ziviani, the family commits to fulfilling Mr. Genta’s unforgettable vision and to sharing it with a global community of watch collectors.

Baroque beginnings: behind the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition is based on the Maestro GC39, an exquisite, rare example of what has become Gerald Charles’s signature design. Inspired by the classic “montre à guichet”, or “window watch” style, the original 2005 model had a sliding-hour complication developed by legendary master watchmaker and friend of Gerald Charles, Antoine Preziuso. It indicated the hour via a rotating disc revealed through an aperture in the dial.

This complex function required sophisticated technical and aesthetic solutions that in keeping with Mr. Genta’s philosophy would be executed with “No Compromise”. This had been the Maison’s mantra since he established it and was never more evident than in the Maestro design itself.

As with all Maestro watches, the original GC39’s esoteric case shape was inspired by forms Mr. Genta observed in a magnificent Baroque monument in Rome that was designed by the 17th century master architect Francesco Borromini. It was the façade that gave the watch its asymmetric case, cascading bezel and a convex “smile” at 6 o’clock.

Fitting the GC39’s movement inside this case was extremely demanding, but Mr. Genta insisted on utmost quality. The watch became one of the most sought-after examples of the Maestro, and today stands as a vivid example of Gerald Charles’s creativity, watchmaking ingenuity and savoir-faire.

“Everything we do today stands as a testimony to the peerless talents of the maestro himself, Mr. Gérald Charles Genta, and to his spirit of ‘No Compromise’,” said Mr. Ziviani. “The GC39 25th Anniversary Edition is a joyful celebration of Mr. Genta’s creativity and love of fine watchmaking, and demonstrates our continuing pursuit of aesthetic and technical mastery.”

A revival fit for the Maestro: introducing the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
Those same characteristics come to the fore again in the new Maestro GC39 25^th Anniversary Edition, a watch that translates the landmark original for a contemporary audience of discerning watch collectors. As per Mr. Genta’s strict principle of always seeking improvement, the new watch elevates the original concept with high-concept decorations and elegant finishing, as well as a superb manufacture movement developed by the Maison’s in-house watchmakers. It will be limited to 100 pieces and only 40 will be delivered at launch.

The Maestro GC39 25^th Anniversary Edition is defined by its familiar stepped, fluid case shape, its radiant dial and the playful manner in which it displays the time. At 12 o’clock, the dial opens to reveal a 12-hour disc and a “jumping hours” complication, whereby the disc jumps forward in one-hour increments every 60 minutes. Time is read off against this disc and a blued central hour hand, which is skeletonized to allow light to reflect through it.

The dial itself carries the spirit of Mr. Genta’s extraordinary artistic creativity and his parallel ability to harness state-of-the-art technology to realise it. It is meticulously crafted from three different components and materials that combine to create a partially hidden Baroque-style, multi-ray star motif that bursts into life as the light catches it. This mesmerizing effect is created using a proprietary new precision micro-chemical engraving technique developed by Gerald Charles called meta-guillochage.

The meta-guilloché process, which has never been used in watchmaking before, begins with a fine engraving that is then covered by a protective coating. A second engraving is then added, before the protective coating is removed, allowing the light to catch and reveal the star. The engraving is created with rounded channels that mean the three-dimensional surface catches the light in a non-linear fashion, leveraging the laws of physics to deliver a unique aesthetic and wearer experience. Another added benefit is that the technique extracts a very thin layer of material, ensuring the watch’s slimline, lightweight profile.

Then, at its heart, the dial is decorated with a delicate slice of lapis lazuli shaped to follow the Maestro’s distinctive case silhouette. The choice of this sparkling blue semi-precious stone is in deference to Mr. Genta, who loved lapis lazuli and used it in many of his designs.

As with a star or a Baroque statue, light emanates outwards from the dial’s lapis lazuli centre, interrupted only by a blued steel Maestro-shaped ring and a black minutes track with blued steel five-minute markers. The dial is finished with a special logo denoting the Maison’s 25^th anniversary, which will only appear on select watches this year.

At 42mm squared, the Maestro’s GC39 25^th Anniversary Edition’s case is 3mm wider than the time-and-date only Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin, and becomes the largest in the Maestro collection. As with the original GC39, it’s designed around the basic square shape, where the standard Maestro is rectangular. Despite the complexity of the case design and the movement’s jumping hours complication, the Maestro GC39 25^th Anniversary Edition is a mere 11mm thick.

However, because it’s cast in polished Grade 5 titanium, it retains the lightweight, ergonomic qualities for which the Maestro is now well known. Materiality is a vital component of any Gerald Charles watch: titanium is a challenging material to work with, but thanks to the ambition and relentless determination of the Maison’s in-house engineers, a solution was found that retains both the Maestro’s iconic case shape and its wearability.

In the same way, the watch is equipped with a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 100 metres, and comes on a blue Clou de Paris vulcanised rubber strap with a polished Grade 5 titanium deployant buckle. Together, these signal the Maestro’s sporty heritage and the Maison’s commitment to creating versatile high-end watches that cross seamlessly from work to play and day to night.

A big jump forward: decoding Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Calibre Jumping Hours
Behind the Maestro GC39 25^th Anniversary Edition’s spellbinding dial is an equally tantalising mechanical calibre. The new Gerald Charles Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Calibre Jumping Hours has been developed and patented in-house by Gerald Charles. It has a jumping hours function and a 50-hour power reserve and required an additional 80 components over a standard time-only movement.

As one of the so-called “middle complications”, a jumping hours remains a rarity in mechanical watchmaking, which is one of the reasons Mr. Genta was so enthralled by it. In developing the Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Calibre Jumping Hours, the Maison’s engineers had to contend with some challenging physics: in advancing one hour, the jumping hours disc consumes the same energy a mechanical movement typically expends in 3,600 seconds. At the same time, the jumping hours disc is 25 times heavier than a conventional hour hand. Given that force is equal to mass multiplied by acceleration, as per Newton’s second law of motion, that means the complication requires a force 70,000 times greater than that of a three-hand watch. This is why jumping hours watches are so uncommon, and why they continue to fascinate the Maison, in the spirit of its brilliant founder.

Also, in keeping with Gerald Charles’s “No Compromise” approach to watchmaking, the movement’s components have been beautifully hand-finished with Côtes de Genève stripes and perlage finishes, using techniques perfected over many generations and performed by the Maison’s artisans. The movement’s wheels are also rhodium-plated, a quiet but powerful symbol of Gerald Charles’ obsession with beauty and absolute quality.

The calibre is finished with a golden oscillating weight visible through the watch’s sapphire case back. The oscillating weight’s honeycomb motif design was imagined by the consultant and friend of Gerald Charles, Mr. Octavio Garcia, and is here complemented by the brand’s special 25^thanniversary logo, which will appear on all 2025 Gerald Charles novelties.

Gerald Charles has significantly increased its watchmaking facilities in Geneva, and today many of the components required for the Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Calibre Jumping Hours are manufactured in-house, marking the next important step on the Maison’s verticalization journey.

“The jumping hours was loved by Mr. Genta, but these days it is almost a lost complication,” said Mr. Ziviani. “The technical challenge behind it is huge, like landing a Space X rocket in micro form. This is what makes it interesting and beautiful, though, and why it brings us so much joy to reintroduce it to Gerald Charles collectors.”

Window to the world: stepping inside the Gerald Charles Museum
As part of Watches and Wonders Geneva’s In the City programme, Gerald Charles will be opening up the Gerald Charles Museum in the heart of Geneva to visitors.

For the first time, visitors will have access to the Maison’s breathtaking archive and to a new exhibition featuring original, hand-painted designs by Gerald Charles Genta, technical drawings and rare Gérald Charles watches, including examples of the original Maestro GC39 in gold and palladium.

The museum is situated in the Gerald Charles Atelier, which opened in April 2024 on the top floor of an historic building in the city centre, where generations of elite watchmakers have benefitted from large windows that let in natural light all year round.

Clients, retailers and press will be invited to the museum to view the exhibition at the Gerald Charles Atelier Genève on Rue du Mont Blanc by appointment only.

“It will be our pleasure to present both the original and new Maestro GC39, alongside archive pieces, to guests of the Maison at Watches and Wonders Geneva and in the Gerald Charles Atelier this week,” said Mr. Ziviani. “It is our firm belief that the new watch is a fitting tribute to Mr. Genta’s tireless creativity and wonderful legacy, and also a sign of how seriously we take his eternal challenge to produce beautiful, timeless, high-quality mechanical watches produced with ‘No Compromise’ for collectors of fine watches. The story of Gerald Charles lives on.”

 

Technical information

References

• GC39-TNPS-LSEN-RSDP-REM

Movement

• In-house, proprietary developed Ref. GCA 3002JH

Caliber

• Automatic
  

Functions

• Anti-clockwise jumping hour with concentric central minutes
  

Weight

• Total: 96 grams

Case

• Case size of 39x41.9mm
• Case thickness. 11.15mm
• Lug-to-lug: 46.9mm
• Dimension: Width: 42.00mm, length: 42.00mm, thickness: 11.00mm, entrecorne: 24.00mm
• Material:  Grade 5 Titanium 
• Ceramic bezel; case back & screw-down crown in Grade 5 Titanium
• Crown: Screw-down crown with Clous de Paris finish and embossed logo
• Construction: Carved with CNC numeric control machinery. Asymmetric polygon with smooth edges (“Maestro” original design by Mr. Gérald Charles Genta). See-through case back.
• Water resistance - 10 ATM/100m  
• Parts - 34 Pieces
• Finishing -  Hand-polished case, vertical brushed case back

Dial

• Materials - Lapis Lazuli stone, brass and stainless steel
• Description - Three level dial with Lapis Lazuli stone at the centre of the dial. The Maestro GC39 25th Anniver- sary Edition dial is based on the Maestro GC39, the historic 2005 sliding-hour timepiece. At 12 o’clock, the dial opens to reveal a 12-hour disc and a “jumping hours” complication.
• Hour disk - Jumping hour disk with black numerals and sunburst finishing
• Colour & Finishing - Lapis Lazuli at the centre of the dial. Proprietary new precision micro-chemical engraving technique developed by Gerald Charles, called Meta-Guillochage. Colormix blue brass frame.
• Decalque, logo and minute-track - Printed silver logos, black minute track
• Guichet - Guichet at 12 o’clock that shows the hour

Hands

• Material: Brass 
• Shape: Sword shaped, minute hand
• Colour & Finishing: Colormix blue

Movement

• Manufacture movement
• Developer: Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier S.A.
• Caliber: Manufacture caliber, GCA 3002JH  
• Type: Anti-clockwise Jumping Hours instant with concentric central minutes, 50-hour power reserve with double barrels system
• Functions: Central anti-clockwise Jumping Hours, central minute hand
• Dimensions: 25.60mm diameter, 6.15mm total thickness  
• Oscillating weight: Golden unidirectional central oscillating weight decorated with the new 25th Anniversary logo. Two layers of finishings: sandblasted base, colimaçon and soleil brushed top with the Gerald Charles “ho-neycomb” motif
• Escapement :Ball bearings in ceramics
• Frequency :28’800 A/h - 4Hz
• Shock resistance: 5G shock resistance, tested with 5 axes robotic arm. Incabloc® anti-shock system
• Jewels: 38 rubies
• Total components: 265 pieces
• Finishing : Bridges finely decorated with colimaçon, côtes de Genève and perlage finishes, and yellow gold colour engravings. Rhodium plated module wheels with brushed snailturn pattern.

Finishing

• Bridges finely decorated with colimaçon, côtes de Genève and perlage finishes.
• Rhodium-plated module wheels.

Water resistance

• 100 metres / 10 ATM
  

Strap

• Material: HNBR Vulcanized Rubber with vanilla scent
• Description: Clous de Paris on one side and the GC logo’s tapisserie on the back.
• One fixed loop and one free. Original design by Mr. Gérald Charles Genta
• Colour: Royal blue
• Size:
  Total lenght: S: 175mm, M: 190mm, L: 212mm; width: 22-20mm; thickness: 5-3mm

Clasp

• Material: Grade 5 Titanium
• Description: GC butterfly folding clasp
• Finishing: Polished and sandblasted contrast  

Availability

• Limited edition of 100 pieces
  

Warranty

• Five years (following ‘Smart Warranty’ system registration)
  

 

About Gerald Charles

Gerald Charles is an independent, family-owned watch company based in Switzerland. It was founded in 2000 by the great Mr. Gérald Charles Genta, the 20th century’s foremost watch designer.

Monsieur Genta, often referred to simply as ‘Maestro’, was a prolific artist and watch designer. After selling the company in 2003, he stayed on as its designer-in-chief until his death in 2011, leaving a treasure trove of watch designs in the company’s care. Every watch created by Gerald Charles is based on one of his original designs and carries his legacy of ‘artistic creativity, technical mastery’ forward into the future.

Gerald Charles watches are at the cutting edge of ergonomics and designed and manufactured to sit comfortably and elegantly on the wrist. Gerald Charles watches are produced without compromise and marry the finest traditions and most up-to-date technologies of Swiss mechanical watchmaking to deliver superior precision and performance, as well as exceptional water and shock resistant. Every piece is an elegant sport watch, the signature of the company's founder and eternal inspiration, Monsieur Genta.

MR. G.C. GENTA

Monsieur Gerald Charles Genta (1931-2011), born in Geneva, is deemed the most acclaimed watch designer in the world. In the early 2000s Monsieur Gerald Charles Genta – at the height of his success and willing to continue his creative production – founded the most modern of his brands: Gerald Charles.

He designed some of the most modern of his watches for the Maison Gerald Charles: amongst them the Maestro is one of his highest achievements. Its asymmetric watch case, one of its kind, has never been seen before and represents an exclusive innovation.

Timeline

2000 
Foundation of the Maison
Mr. Gérald Charles Genta founded Gerald Charles, giving the Maison his first two names. 

2001
Gerald Charles Renaissance
Renaissance is the first Gerald Charles collection, whose name perfectly describes Mr. Genta’s artistic revival. The collection is a bolder expression of the soft line which Mr. Genta was always particularly fond of. 

2003
Mr. Genta as Designer in Chief
Mr. Gérald Charles Genta sold the company to a group of investors, led by the Ziviani family, and remained Designer in Chief until 2011, with Mr. Giampaolo Ziviani as General Manager. Nowadays, Mr. Genta’s legacy lives on through his many watch designs and the Maison Gerald Charles. Every watch created by Maison Gerald Charles today is based on one of his original designs. 

2005
Gerald Charles Maestro
Mr. Gérald Charles Genta introduced the Maestro case, an iconic case made to last for future generations, whose shape lies between a square and an octagon. He took inspiration from the 17th century baroque architecture, realised by the Swiss-born Italian architect Francesco Borromini. The ‘smile’ at 6 o’clock is a subtle reflection of the concavity on the monuments’ façades. 

2011
Production of bespoke timepieces
Between 2011 and 2018, the Maison produced bespoke timepieces for a niche of collectors. Some of Mr. Genta's early creations had the designer's signature engraved on the case back, as an artwork of an artist. 

2019
Federico Ziviani as CEO
A new management took part in the Maison with a Board of Director and Federico Ziviani as CEO. The common mission has been opening up the story of Gerald Charles to a wider audience of collectors, increasing the production from a few dedicated pieces to 1.500 pieces a year. 

2021
The Maestro Anniversary and the Maestro premier 2021
In 2020, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the company, Gerald Charles released the Maestro Anniversary: a limited edition of 252 pieces marking the number of months since the company was founded. A year later, the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin and Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Premier 2021 were launched. 

2024
Retail’s expansion
In 2022, the company was immediately appreciated among watch collectors worldwide. The brand supported by the best retailers in Europe, in particular Italy and the Middle East. In 2023, Gerald Charles continued its distribution in North Europe and the USA. In 2024. Gerald Charles officially began distribution on the Japanese market and inaugurated a new hub in Geneva, the Atelier.