Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune
Chief Chronograph Dune

Chief Chronograph Dune

59 000 kr

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Chief Chronograph Dune

Favre Leuba Expands Chief Chronograph Collection with Two Striking New Dial Colors: British Racing Green and Dune

After the introduction of the Chief Chronograph in 2024, a collection inspired by the Favre Leuba chronograph watches of the 1970s, with cushion-shaped cases, the collection now features two refined dial colors: British Racing Green and Dune. These new variants build on the model’s distinctive design, offering fresh character while staying true to the collection’s roots.

A Dial Born From Over 100 Steps

When the Chief Chronograph was revived in 2024, it quickly distinguished itself through its dial. Showcasing remarkable complexity and depth, each dial undergoes a process involving more than a hundred distinct stages. The result is a multi-dimensional canvas where multiple finishes interplay: a sunburst main dial, circular brushed sub-dials, and a ribbed contour pattern that adds structural and visual dynamism. Executing these layers demands absolute precision, not only in texture but in the uniform application of color across the dial’s undulating surfaces.

That complexity narrows the field when it comes to choosing colors. Only a few can withstand the process and still emerge with clarity, brilliance, and balance. Following the success of the original blue, black, and ice blue variants, British Racing Green and Dune now join the collection; hues carefully tested and perfected to meet Favre Leuba’s uncompromising standards.

The Chief Chronograph Dune

The Chief Chronograph Dune offers a more understated elegance. Its warm, sandy hue sits between beige and soft gold, layered over a brushed and sunray-finished dial. Refined, contrasting tones, along with the lush rose gold–hued hands and markers, create a sense of balance and harmony across the dial’s architectural layout — subtle, yet undeniably distinctive.

Streamlined Proportions, Elevated Wearability

Both variants feature the Chief’s signature 41 mm cushion-shaped case in stainless steel, with brushed and polished finishes for a balanced look. At 14mm thick, it offers excellent wearability, while the case is water-resistant to 10 ATM.

Each piece is offered with an integrated, two-link, steel bracelet featuring brushed and polished finishes, and an additional FKM rubber strap — delivering comfort, versatility, and a seamless aesthetic.

Powered by Precision

Inside the case, visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, is the FLC02 automatic chronograph movement, developed in close partnership with La Joux-Perret. This high-performance caliber features a thermally blued column wheel, ensuring precise chronograph engagement. A column wheel offers greater precision and accuracy than a cam-actuated mechanism, and in the Chief Chronograph watches, this component undergoes an intricate bluing process that also enhances its hardness. This meticulous procedure requires absolute precision — even the slightest deviation means starting over from the beginning.

The dial presents a horizontal bi-compax arrangement of the sub-dials, with a 30-minute chronograph counter at three o’clock and running seconds at nine. This layout not only enables an at-a-glance reading of elapsed minutes and seconds, but also contributes to a cleaner, more balanced, and highly legible display.

The movement features beautiful Geneva stripes, perlage, and thermally blued screws on the main caliber. It is topped by a skeletonized rotor adorned with a spiral-brushed colimaçonnage and sunburst soleillage.

Technical information

Case

  • Case: Size 41 mm
  • Material: Steel
  • Case shape: Cushion
  • Case Thickness: 14 mm
  • Lug Width: 22 mm
  • Glass Material: Sapphire Crystal
  • Case Back: See-through Case Back
  • Water Resistance: 100M

Dial

  • Dial Colour: Dune
  • Luminosity: On Hands & Hour Markers

Movement

  • Caliber: FLC02
  • Movement: Automatic
  • Features: Small second, Chronograph, Tachymeter
  • Jewels: 28
  • Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
  • Frequency: 28800 vph

Bracelet and straps

  • Material: Steel
  • Clasp Type: Folding clasp
  • Strap: Dune rubber

Reference

  • 00.20101.113.08.200 Bracelet
  • 00.20101.113.08.308 Rubber strap

FAVRE LEUBA HISTORY

A JOURNEY OF 287 YEARS SINCE 1737

1718
EARLY APPRENTICESHIP
Abraham Favre (1702-1790) began his watchmaking apprenticeship with watchmaker Daniel Gagnebin in 1718 when he was only 16 years old.

1737
INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKER
On March 13, 1737, in an official document, Abraham Favre was first mentioned as an independent watchmaker in Le Locle.

1749
MAITRE HORLOGER DU LOCLE
Around 1749, Abraham Favre was appointed Maître horloger du Locle (master watchmaker of Le Locle).

1764
SPECIAL COLLABORATIONS
The year marks the beginning of a close collaboration between Abraham Favre and Jacques-Frederic Horiet, the father of Swiss chronometry. Around the same time, Abraham Favre also worked with Abraham Louis Breguet on different innovative timepieces.

1820
HENRY-AUGUST FAVRE
He travelled around the world – from Germany to Russia, through Cuba to New York, from Brazil to Chile – to establish the finely-made pocket watches of their workshop in remote markets.

1851
POCKET WATCHES
Favre Leuba pocket watches received numerous awards at national and international exhibitions – in London (1851), New York (1853), Paris (1855), Bern (1857), and Porto (1865), among others.

1865
FAVRE LEUBA IN INDIA
Favre Leuba became the first Swiss watch brand to enter India when Fritz Favre travelled to the country in 1865 and launched some of the house's popular timepieces there.

1896
GENEVA
The company headquarters were relocated from Le Locle to Geneva.

1908
HENRY FAVRE LEUBA (1865–1961)
He assumed leadership of the family business in 1908 and continued to grow the brand. He remained president of the board of directors until his death in 1961.

1945
INTERNATIONAL EXPANSION
After the Second World War, Favre Leuba was able to count on a stable position in India thanks to their own office in Bombay. Gradually, the family company won back its standing and relevance in other watch markets – first in Switzerland, then Europe, and later in America and Africa. Among others, branches in Hamburg, London, Rangoon, Karachi, Singapore, and New York secured well-functioning distribution as well as first-class customer service.

1946
WATCH SHOWS
After 1946, Favre Leuba regularly exhibited at the Basel Watch Show and, after 1953, at the Salon Montres et Bijoux (trade show for watches and jewellery) in Geneva as well.

1948
FAVRE LEUBA BOVET
Favre Leuba acquired the name and manufacturing facilities of Bovet in 1948. For the next two years, the maison produced many high-precision chronograph watches branded as Favre Leuba Bovet.

1955
IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT
Favre Leuba introduced the manufacture calibre FL101, first used in the Sea Chief, Sea King, and Sea Raider watch models.

1960
WATER DEEP
The very first dive watch, Water Deep, was introduced by the brand. It was the stepping stone for the success it garnered in this category.

1962
BIVOUAC

Favre Leuba developed the legendary Bivouac, the world’s first mechanical wristwatch with an aneroid barometer for altimetry and air pressure measurement. It soon ranked among the indispensable equipment of those who overcame seemingly defined limits. The Bivouac completed one of its first missions on the wrists of the Swiss national parachuting team during the 1962 World Cup in the United States. The Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti wore a Bivouac in 1964 when he and the Genevan Michel Vaucher successfully ascended the north face of Pointe Whymper (4,196 m) in the Grandes Jorasses for the first time and when he conquered the north face of the Matterhorn on the most direct route. The young Valais native Michel Darbelley undertook his first solo ascent of the Eiger in 1963 with his watch from the workshops of Favre Leuba, which reliably showed him what altitude he had already scaled and whether a change in weather was imminent. The famous French polar explorer Paul-Emile Victor relied on his Bivouac on numerous expeditions to the endless ice.

FL251 CALIBREThe patented FL251 calibre of 1962, with 11.5‴ and a height of only 2.95 mm, revolutionised thanks to the use of two barrels, series production of extra flat movements with centered second hand.

1964
DEEP BLUE

Three years after the presentation of the first diver’s watch from the in-house atelier, the brand launched the Deep Blue, waterproof up to 200 metres.

NEW HEADQUARTERS Favre Leuba reincorporated production of their own ébauches in the newly established company, headquartered in Petit-Lancy near Geneva. The company was consequently named at the end of the 19th century as Manufacture d’Horlogerie Favre-Leuba S.A.

1968
BATHY
In 1968, the brand introduced Bathy – the world’s first mechanical wristwatch that not only displayed dive time, but also current diving depth.

1969
FAVRE LEUBA AND JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Favre Leuba and Jaeger-LeCoultre became sister companies in 1969 when Georges Favre purchased the SAPIC Group, which owned Jaeger-LeCoultre at the time. The association saw the development of some now-popular Jaeger-LeCoultre watches like Reverso and Memovox with Favre Leuba branding.

1970
EVOLVING THE ART
Several models marked the transition into the 1970s, perfectly matching the zeitgeist with their distinctive pillowy design. Inside the Sea Raider, with day and calendar indication, ticked the automatic calibre FL1164 with 36,000 vph, while the Memo Raider delighted the global clientele with an automatic alarm. The Sea Sky and Sea Sky GMT models, introduced at the same time, combined the functionality of a diver’s watch with that of a chronograph and a 24-hour hand.

1985
QUARTZ CRISIS
The introduction of quartz movements plunged the Swiss watch industry into a severe crisis that did not stop at the gates of Favre Leuba’s workshops. The family was subsequently compelled to sell the brand in the 1980s. After that, the company changed ownership multiple times.

2016
RAIDER HARPOON
Favre Leuba launched its ultimate diving watch, the Raider Harpoon, which features a unique way of reading the time. Through its innovative functionality and by simplifying the complexity, Raider Harpoon fits perfectly into a long line of legendary timepieces this watch brand has always designed.

2017
280TH ANNIVERSARY

280th anniversary of the Maison was celebrated at Baselworld with the launch of the Bivouac 9000, the ultimate instrument for all altitudes.

BRAND AMBASSADORSThe brand supports many athletes and expeditions that express our claim of Conquering Frontiers. Pen Hadow, who led a mission to the Arctic, Satyarup Siddhanta, who embarked on a journey to the Mt. Vinson Massif, and Sayuri Kinoshita, who undertook a world-record dive, are some of the ambassadors representing Favre Leuba and their tool watches.

2018
COLLECTING ACCOLADES

Within less than a year of its launch, the Raider Bivouac 9000 wins the Watchstars award in the category New Stars for being the best new watch.

50TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BATHY Favre Leuba celebrated the 50th anniversary of the 1968 superstar Bathy with the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth, which measures and records depth to 120 m.

BIVOUAC 9000 SUMMITS EVERESTA great year for Favre Leuba as its pioneering instrument watch, the Raider Bivouac 9000, reaches the summit of Mount Everest. The Bivouac 9000 is the only mechanical altimeter watch in the world to have successfully reached an altitude of 8,848m.

2024
FAVRE LEUBA REVIVAL
Favre Leuba relaunched at Geneva Watch Days 2024 with three cornerstone collections. These collections include the Chief, which features two modern icons: the Date and Chronograph. The brand also introduced the 60th-anniversary Deep Blue Revival and Renaissance models, honoring its diving heritage. In addition, the brand unveiled the Sea Sky, a tribute to their original 70s design.


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